iPero qué chévre!

I’m in laying in bed, and for once it’s quiet. No festivals for carnaval. No dogs barking incessantly from nearby rooftops. No one playing basketball in the court below my window. It has finally rained and Quito is calm. When I first saw the view from my window, I was sure it had to be one of the best Quito could offer. I’m on the third floor of a very narrow but cozy house. My host sister and I are the only ones who occupy this floor, although aside from our rooms and a bathroom, there is only about 30 square feet of floor so to speak. The view from my window is of rolling green mountains with dramatic gorges, and a small waterfall here and there. And all up the sides, like some new species of tree, or at night light like thousands entrails of light, are houses painted in pink and blue and green pastel colors. The windows occupy a little over two-thirds the length and half the height of one wall. Every time I walk into my room, I am shocked by the view. But I have come to realize that breathtaking vistas are around virtually every corner here.

I started grinning stupidly on the plane, the type of grin that you just can’t wipe off your face, and it’s made the occasional appearance ever since. The families are so welcoming to all the students and know how to have a good time. I love talking with all of them, whether about intellectual pursuits or why failing to look someone in the eye will result in bad sex for seven years. They’re always making jokes, and they dance like crazy. And the weather is amazing. Every time my host family traces out a route for me, I think, “Oh, this is going to be terrible in the winter.” It’s a long-ingrained habit formed by inherent pessimism and cold climate. Then, with a start, I realize: No. It IS winter. It’s always like this. Even the rain is beautiful. When it rained earlier today, I could see how the clouds descended upon the mountain and houses. I’ve only ever seen clouds and drops of rain. But here, I could see the entire transition, how wisps of clouds touched the ground. I never knew.

I have a bad habit of comparing it to Argentina in my mind. It’s definitely different. Some of the words I use don’t translate in Ecuador. People are more punctual (although certainly not punctual by any standards in the United States). They eat dinner around 6:30 or 7:00 PM. They drink agua sin gas. But some things are similar. Greetings are one example. When you enter a room, you must greet everyone individually with a kiss on the cheek. If you don’t, you are maleducada (badly educated). The same goes for when you leave a room. It is one of the most fundamental aspects of life in Ecuador. There is no such thing as slinking in late or making a quick getaway. You have to interact. The same goes for meals: eating seems to be only an excuse for long conversations that can stretch hours into the night. People are much closer to their families here. My host brother, Miguel, is 31 and studying to be a diplomat. He lives at home, and it’s just a given that he will continue to do so until he is married. And maybe even afterward, if there’s room. Children are enormously affectionate with their parents, holding hands, stroking hair, sharing plates of food, constant kissing. At first it made me a little bit uncomfortable, but it’s really just another way of expressing familial bonds.

There are a ton of adventures and experiences to share already. I’m listening to Radiohead’s “The Tourist” and reminding myself to slow down a bit. There will be plenty of time to try everything. Since I can’t possibly explain everything we’ve done and seen, I will share just a bit through pictures.


The view from my window! You can’t tell in the photo, but I can see the volcano Cotapaxi in the distance.



Me with my host sister, or ñaña in quichua. Her name is Maribel; she’s 24 and studying to be a pediatrician. We’re in Parque Ichimba, a hill which overlooks much of the city and has some nice foliage and birds.



Maribel and me with my host mom, María Luisa. To the right you can see the famous statue, La virgin del panecillo. La colina (hill) is shaped like bread – hence, panecillo. My host dad, Miguel, says that this was an important religous center for indigenous groups prior to the arrival of the Spanish, who claimed it as their own.



The whole group of study abroad students at the equator. From left to right are Avi, Mariel, Anna, Jonathan, and me. Anna is standing directly on the equator. Avi and Mariel are in the Northern hemisphere, Jonathan and I are in the Southern hemisphere.

Mariel and Anna experimenting with the lack of gravity!



Cuy vivos.



Cuy muertos. Delicacy!

Me at the equator again, with the world in the palm of my hand.

Anna and I celebrating carnaval! Random strangers spray you with carioca (a colored foam something like soap) and attack you with bottles of water. This is still at the Mitad del Mundo, and we were listening to Trio Colonial, a famous group that plays traditional Ecuadorian music. The guy in the background is Phillip, Jonathan’s host brother. He’s the only host sibling that hangs out with the whole group of us... and such an instigator. He ran out of water, so he dumped an entire glass of beer on me. Afterward, we went directly to Mariel’s host family’s house for a dance party until about 9:00 PM, so I was sticky for HOURS. But I’m a big fan of Phillip – all the girls are. ;-) I'm also a big fan of his dad, Carlos. Everyone calls him Carlitos. He’s so much fun! I have had lots of good conversations with him about linguistics and Ecuadorian politics. And he’s such a prankster. He told all the college students that he wanted them to feel comfortable at the party, so he suggested beer pong. We all got really quiet and he said, “Oh you’re right, we don’t have beer. Wine pong!!” We didn’t play wine pong, but they made us a delicious drink with wine, honey, and spices – heated.

Almost everything here is delicious! Yucca, and all kinds of fruit that don’t even translate into English. There’s something they call the golden berry, because it’s so healthy. It looks a little like a yellow cherry tomato and tastes sweet and sour at the same time. And there's granadilla, which seems to me like a pomegrante-kiwi-orange hybrid. Love it.

The dogs outside are at again and I'm exhausted, so that's all for now. Besos a todos en los EEUU.